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Aprons can evoke memories and spark inspiration for the Thanksgiving cook

15 November 2024 at 20:11

By KIM COOK, Associated Press

Deborah Reinhardt has fond memories of her mother and grandmother cooking in aprons dusted with flour or other signs of that day’s meal. And then there were the special occasions.

“Grandma, especially, wore the fancier ones with ruffles and silky fabric for serving Thanksgiving dinner,” says Reinhardt, who lives in St. Louis and runs a food blog called Three Women in the Kitchen.

She regretted that she hadn’t saved any of those family heirlooms, but then her daughter gave her a special gift one Mother’s Day: a frilly apron. “Whenever I use it, memories of Mom and Bubba come alive. It’s almost like putting on a superhero’s cape; I feel like I can tackle anything in the kitchen,” Reinhardt says.

This image provided by Deborah Reinhardt, a St. Louis author and food blogger at “Three Women in the Kitchen,” shows Reinhardt proudly wearing the apron her daughter gave her. (Deborah Reinhardt vis AP)

Aprons carry all kinds of associations. Professional cooks and contestants on TV cooking shows wear large, utilitarian ones: grill masters might have the goofy “BBQ Dad” variety.

They go especially well with Thanksgiving, evoking memories and putting the focus on the cook.

There’s something empowering about cooking with an apron on; it says you are Creating a Meal. EllynAnne Geisel, a self-described “apron archaeologist,” likens these pieces of cloth to “domestic armor.”

“Aprons don’t hold us back — they take us back,” she writes in “The Apron Book: Making, Wearing, and Sharing a Bit of Cloth and Comfort.”

And she notes that aprons are worn by a range of professionals, from cooks and bakers to fishmongers, welders and carpenters.

A look at some current apron styles:

As seen on ‘The Bear,’ ‘Top Chef’ and other shows

This image provided by Hedley-Bennett shows the Essential apron, one often seen worn by pro chefs on shows like "Top Chef, Is It Cake?", and "The Bear". Food editors like Katie Brown and Chandra Ram like the aprons practical adjustable waist and neck straps and multiple pockets. (Hedley-Bennett via AP)
This image provided by Hedley-Bennett shows the Essential apron, one often seen worn by pro chefs on shows like “Top Chef, Is It Cake?”, and “The Bear”. Food editors like Katie Brown and Chandra Ram like the aprons practical adjustable waist and neck straps and multiple pockets. (Hedley-Bennett via AP)

Katie Brown, a writer at Food & Wine, spotted something consistent among her favorite cooking shows “The Bear,” “Is It Cake?” and “Top Chef.”

“The chefs on my TV not only make cooking look easy, but they look great while doing it,” Brown says.

Many of those chefs wear an apron from Hedley and Bennett, a brand started by a pro chef. Their “Essential” version is made of sturdy cotton twill, and features adjustable neck and waist straps and lots of big and small pockets. (“The Bear” star Jeremy Allen White often wears a dark blue one, a nod to the French Laundry restaurant in Napa Valley, California, which became known for its chefs’ blue aprons.)

It’s the pockets that have won over Brown’s colleague, associate editorial director Chandra Ram.

“For me, pockets make the apron. I want to be able to stash a Sharpie and a few pieces of paper towel,” says Ram. “And I like the straps to be long enough that I can tie them in front so I can hang a dish towel to use to grab a hot pan or clean up a spill. I bought kids’ versions for my nieces and nephews for when we bake together.”

Other pro-style brands include Under NY Sky, Chef Works, Bragard and Cargo Crew.

Apron variations around the world

This photo provided by Milk Street shows their Maekake apron. The apron resembles the cotton banners often seen above the entrance to eateries in Japan, and Milk Street's features the long-distance traveling Arctic tern, along with their address in Japanese lettering. Founder Christopher Kimball says, "We really like this apron because it fits how we feel about us traveling to all corners of the world for recipes." (Milk Street via AP)
This photo provided by Milk Street shows their Maekake apron. The apron resembles the cotton banners often seen above the entrance to eateries in Japan, and Milk Street’s features the long-distance traveling Arctic tern, along with their address in Japanese lettering. Founder Christopher Kimball says, “We really like this apron because it fits how we feel about us traveling to all corners of the world for recipes.” (Milk Street via AP)

Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street nods to Japanese restaurants with the maekake, which resembles the cotton banners often seen at their entrances. Maekeke is the term for traditional Japanese workwear dating to the 16th century.

Milk Street’s version, made of indigo cotton, features an Arctic tern and the Japanese lettering for their address in Boston, 177 Milk Street.

Fans of Finnish design house Marimekko ’s prints might add an apron to their wardrobe. Choose from bold, black-and-white or colorful graphics and florals, each with a front pocket and adjustable neck strap. Many patterns have coordinating pot holders and oven mitts.

This image provided by Marimekko shows their Rasymatto apron and matching oven mitts. The Finnish design house is known for its striking graphic and floral prints. (Marimekko via AP)
This image provided by Marimekko shows their Rasymatto apron and matching oven mitts. The Finnish design house is known for its striking graphic and floral prints. (Marimekko via AP)

Apron designs at Portugalia Marketplace include one with colorful illustrations of sardine cans, a buzzy food trend. And a Mediterranean blue and white tile-patterned apron will make you feel like you’re in a tasca, or little restaurant, in Porto.

Cooks the world over can toast their furry friends with one of Design Imports’ aprons featuring romping dogs and cats.

This image provided by Minted shows an apron featuring the charming fabric print of one of Minted's community of independent artists, Kristen Knechtel. This children's apron's pattern is called Winter Woodland. Aprons can be personalized with a custom foil-pressed leather name tag. (Minted via AP)
This image provided by Minted shows an apron featuring the charming fabric print of one of Minted’s community of independent artists, Kristen Knechtel. This children’s apron’s pattern is called Winter Woodland. Aprons can be personalized with a custom foil-pressed leather name tag. (Minted via AP)

For real retro, try a riff on a pinafore or flour sack

Aprons became common in the early 1900s, when America’s first chain restaurant, Harvey House, was created by Fred Harvey. The “Harvey Girls” — the wait staff’s moniker – wore floor-length white aprons. Judy Garland wore one in the 1946 “Harvey Girls” film and they became popular in American households.

And flour companies in the 1920s came out with aprons made from repurposed feed or flour sacks.

Uncommon Goods has some fun ones repurposed from old sacks and made by artisans in Ghana. The aprons feature a cheery patchwork on one side, and are reversible. Makers are part of the Fair Trade Federation, which supports local craftswomen.

New York-based writer Kim Cook covers design and decor topics regularly for The AP. Follow her on Instagram at @kimcookhome.

This image provided by Minted shows an apron featuring the fabric print creativity of one of Minted’s community of independent artists, Luz Alliat. This adult’s apron’s pattern is called Outdoors. Aprons can be personalized with a custom foil-pressed leather name tag. (Minted via AP)

Quick Fix: Burger Stroganoff

12 November 2024 at 20:58

By Linda Gassenheimer, Tribune News Service (TNS)

Stroganoff is an old Russian stand-by usually made with beef or turkey. Here’s a modern version made with hamburger meat.

The mixture of mushrooms, tomato paste, mustard and a dash of Worcestershire sauce gives the stroganoff sauce a tangy blend of flavors and a thick texture.

HELPFUL HINT:

Any type of sliced mushrooms can be used.

COUNTDOWN:

Place water for noodles on to boil.

Start stroganoff recipe.

Boil noodles.

While noodles cooks, complete stroganoff.

Drain pasta and place on plates. Serve stroganoff on top of noodles.

SHOPPING LIST:

To buy: 3/4 pound 95 percent lean ground beef, 1 large green bell pepper, 1/2 pound sliced button mushrooms, 1 container unsalted chicken broth, 1 small can tomato paste, 1 jar Dijon mustard, 12 small bottle Worcestershire Sauce, 1 carton reduced-fat sour cream, 1 bunch fresh parsley, 1/4 pound flat eff noodles.

Staples: olive oil, onion, black peppercorns.

Burger Stroganoff

Recipe by Linda Gassenheimer

  • 2 teaspoons olive oil, divided use
  • 3/4 pound 95 percent lean ground beef
  • 1 cup fresh diced onion
  • 1 cup diced green bell pepper
  • 1/2 pound sliced button mushrooms, (about 3 cups)
  • 3/4 cup fat-free, unsalted chicken broth
  • 2 tablespoons no-salt-added tomato paste
  • 2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
  • 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
  • 3 tablespoons reduced-fat sour cream, divided use
  • Freshly ground black pepper
  • 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

Heat one teaspoon of oil in a nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add the ground beef and break it up into small pieces with the sides of a cooking spoon, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a plate. Add the second teaspoon of oil to the skillet along with the onion and green bell pepper. Saute 2 minutes. Add mushrooms and continue to saute for 3 minutes more. Add broth, tomato paste, mustard and Worcestershire sauce. Mix thoroughly. Simmer 2 to 3 minutes. Taste. You may need to add a little more mustard. There should be a delicate blend of flavors. Return the ground beef to the skillet and add 1 tablespoon sour cream and black pepper to taste. Mix thoroughly. Divide in half and serve over the egg noodles. Sprinkle with chopped parsley. Place 1 tablespoon sour cream on top of the stroganoff on each plate.

Yield 2 servings.

Per serving: 405 calories (37 percent from fat), 16.8 g fat (6.2 g saturated, 6.7 g monounsaturated), 117 mg cholesterol, 44.0 g protein, 20.3 g carbohydrates, 4.7 g fiber, 402 mg sodium.

Egg Noodles

Recipe by Linda Gassenheimer

  • 1/4 pound flat egg noodles (about 2 1/2-cups)
  • 2 teaspoons olive oil
  • 3 tablespoons water from noodles
  • Freshly ground black pepper

Bring a large pot 3/4 full of water to a boil. Add the noodles. Boil 10 minutes. Remove 3 tablespoons cooking liquid to a mixing bowl and add oil to the bowl. Drain noodles and add to the bowl. Add pepper to taste. Toss well. Divide in half and place on 2 dinner plates.

Yield 2 servings.

Per serving: 259 calories (24 percent from fat), 7.0 g fat (1.3 g saturated, 2.9 g monounsaturated), 48 mg cholesterol, 8.1 g protein, 40.6 g carbohydrates, 1.9 g fiber, 12 mg sodium.

(Linda Gassenheimer is the author of over 30 cookbooks, including her newest, “The 12-Week Diabetes Cookbook.” Listen to Linda on www.WDNA.org and all major podcast sites. Email her at Linda@DinnerInMinutes.com.)

©2024 Tribune Content Agency, LLC

Burger Stroganoff. (Linda Gassenheimer/TNS)

It’s squash season, and we’re all about delicata

7 November 2024 at 14:25

By Beth Dooley, The Minnesota Star Tribune (TNS)

This time of year, as the light slants and temperatures drop, all I really want for dinner is pasta. It’s the key to a luxuriously easy meal when tossed with the robust vegetables of autumn.

As much as I love winter squash, I have often resisted using it, not wanting to deal with removing the tough peel and the messy seeds. But right now, delicata squash is at its best. The skins are so tender that you can eat the whole thing (after removing the seeds). Delicata is super easy to cook. It’s smaller in size so one easily feeds two. It’s nicknamed “sweet potato squash” for its lush, velvety texture and the way it caramelizes in a hot pan.

To prepare delicata, simply slice it in half lengthwise, scoop out the seeds and stringy flesh and cut the seeded squash halves into half-moon slices for the prettiest effect. Now it’s ready to roast on a sheet pan (first drizzled with a little oil and salt) in a high-heat oven.

I like delicata best when it’s butter-steamed with a little sage tossed in. Butter steaming cooks the vegetables directly in the butter and is one of the easiest techniques for concentrating flavors. The butter and vegetable juices meld into a wonderful sauce when a little pasta cooking water and wine or stock is added to the pan. It’s best when the butter has begun to brown and the squash starts to caramelize and turn nutty. Toss in cooked pasta, scatter the whole thing with fresh herbs and cheese, and you have a satisfying vegetarian dinner or a hearty side, a taste of our gorgeous fall.

Delicata Squash, Spinach and Sage-Butter Pasta

Serves 4.

This easy pasta dish shows off delicata’s greatest qualities. The slices turn tender, sweet and nutty as they caramelize in butter that becomes the base for a luscious sauce. No need to peel the squash first, as the skin is soft and adds texture to the final dish. A handful of fresh spinach adds color and taste; kale or broccoli would work equally well. Vary the cheese as you please. From Beth Dooley.

  • 8 oz. pasta
  • Coarse salt
  • 4 tbsp. (¼ c.) butter, cut into chunks
  • 1 lb. delicata squash, halved and seeded, cut into ¼-inch slices
  • ¼ c. peeled, sliced shallot
  • 2 tsp. chopped fresh sage
  • Generous pinch red pepper flakes, to taste
  • ¼ c. pasta cooking water
  • ¼ c. white wine (or more pasta cooking water)
  • 6 to 8 oz. fresh spinach leaves, torn
  • Fresh cracked black pepper
  • 1 tbsp. balsamic vinegar, or more to taste
  • 2 to 3 oz. chèvre or mozzarella

Directions

Bring a large pot of salted water to boil. Drop in the pasta and cook until al dente, about 10 to 12 minutes. During the last couple of minutes of cooking, remove about 1 cup of the pasta water and set aside. Drain the pasta, cover and set aside.

Set a large skillet over medium heat and add the butter. When the butter starts to foam, add the squash slices and shallot and cook, tossing, until lightly browned, about 3 to 5 minutes. Cover the pan and allow the squash to cook a little more until it becomes tender, about 1 minute. Remove the cover, add the sage and red pepper flakes, ¼ cup of the pasta water and wine (or more pasta water). Stir and add the spinach and cook until wilted. Taste and adjust the seasonings, adding pepper and more salt. If it seems dry, add a little more wine or pasta water. Toss in the pasta and before serving, drizzle with the balsamic and dot with the cheese.

Beth Dooley is the author of “The Perennial Kitchen.” Find her at bethdooleyskitchen.com.

©2024 The Minnesota Star Tribune. Visit at startribune.com. Distributed by Tribune Content Agency, LLC.

Delicata is nicknamed “sweet potato squash” for its lush, velvety texture and the way it caramelizes in a hot pan. (Dreamstime/TNS)

Recipe: Chocolate Haupia Pie, inspired by Ted’s Bakery in Hawaii

7 November 2024 at 14:20

If you’re looking for a new twist for your Thanksgiving pie display, this Hawaiian chocolate haupia pie may be just the thing. This recipe yields a rich chocolate pie with a layer of haupia –a coconut milk pudding — topped with whipped cream.

This recipe is inspired by the haupia pie found at Ted’s Bakery in Oahu. The bakery on the island’s North Shore serves up creative cream pies like this one, plus peach Bavarian cream, strawberry guava and chocolate macadamia nut cream pies. And the how-tos hail from the new “Most Requested Copycat Dishes: 100+ Homemade Versions of Your Favorite Restaurant Recipes” cookbook (Shadow Mountain, $25) by the team — Erica Walker, Emily Walker, Elise Donovon and Echo Blickenstaff — from Favorite Family Recipes.

"Most Requested Copycat Dishes: 100+ Homemade Versions of Your Favorite Restaurant Recipes" (Shadow Mountain, $25) contains a wide array of recipes inspired by popular restaurant dishes. (Courtesy Shadow Mountain)
“Most Requested Copycat Dishes: 100+ Homemade Versions of Your Favorite Restaurant Recipes” (Shadow Mountain, $25)

Chocolate Haupia Pie

Serves 8

INGREDIENTS

9-inch pie crust (store-bought or homemade)

1½ cups whole milk, divided

5 tablespoons cornstarch

14-ounce can unsweetened coconut milk (not fat-free or light)

1 cup granulated sugar

1 cup semisweet chocolate chips

Whipped Cream

1½ cups heavy whipping cream

1/4 cup sugar

1/2 teaspoon coconut extract (optional)

DIRECTIONS

Line a pie tin with pastry crust. Generously pierce crust with a fork. Bake according to  your pie crust recipe or according to package directions, until golden brown. Remove from oven and allow crust to cool.

In a liquid measuring cup or small bowl, combine 1/2 cup whole milk and cornstarch. Mix until cornstarch is dissolved. Set aside.

In a medium-sized saucepan over medium heat, whisk together remaining 1 cup whole milk, coconut milk and sugar. Bring to a simmer, whisking often.

Stir cornstarch mixture once more before slowly adding to coconut milk mixture, whisking constantly. Continue whisking until mixture becomes thick, like a thick pudding. (This coconut milk pudding is the haupia.) It is very important that the mixture is thick before moving to the next step.

Place about half of the haupia mixture into a separate bowl and set aside. Add chocolate chips to the remaining mixture in the saucepan and stir until chocolate chips are completely melted and well combined.

Add chocolate haupia mixture immediately to cooled pie crust and smooth with a spatula until even. Add the remaining haupia mixture over the top and carefully smooth over until even.

Cover and refrigerate for 6 hours.

To make the whipped cream, whip heavy cream and sugar until stiff peaks form. Add coconut extract and whip for 30 more seconds.

After pie has cooled, cut into slices and top with whipped cream topping. You can use a piping bag fitted with a large star tip to pipe the whipped cream in a design over the top.

— Excerpted from “Favorite Family Recipes: Most Requested Copy Cat Dishes” (Shadow Mountain, 2024) 

The recipe for this chocolate haupia pie, inspired by Ted’s Bakery in Hawaii, comes from the new cookbook “Most Requested Copycat Dishes: 100+ Homemade Versions of Your Favorite Restaurant Recipes” by the team from Favorite Family Recipes (Shadow Mountain, $25). (Courtesy Heidi Rasmussen, Kelsey Crist and Erica Walker)
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