Ditalini, that petite tube-shaped pasta (sometimes referred to as “macaroni salad pasta”), is a welcome addition to simple soups. I like to team it with peas, onion, and celery. Diced pancetta comes to the party too, adding an appealing meaty flavor profile with a hint of sweetness. Fresh mint and parsley, added just before serving, add a delightful brightness to the mix.

Pasta and Pea Soup

Yield: 4 to 5 servings

INGREDIENTS

1 1/2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 medium onion, chopped

2 stalks of celery, chopped

4 ounces diced pancetta

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

4 cups (32 ounces) chicken broth

1 1/2 cups water

1 1/2 cups ditalini

1 1/2 cups frozen peas

1/4 cup grated Pecorino Romano cheese, plus extra for passing at the table

Optional: Hot sauce, such as Frank’s RedHot sauce, to taste; see cook’s notes

1/3 cup finely chopped fresh parsley

3 tablespoons minced fresh mint

Cook’s notes: I like to add a few drops of Frank’s RedHot sauce to the mix. It provides both needed acidity and subtle heat. Add a few drops and taste the broth. Add more if needed.

DIRECTIONS

1. In a Dutch oven or large saucepan, heat oil on medium-high heat. Add onion, celery, pancetta, salt, and pepper; cook, stirring occasionally, until onion is softened and pancetta is just starting to very slightly brown, about 6 to 8 minutes.

2. Add broth and water and bring to a boil on high heat. Add pasta, stir, and bring back to a boil. Reduce heat to medium and boil gently, stirring frequently, until pasta is al dente (tender but with a little bite), about 10 to 12 minutes. Stir in peas (you don’t have to thaw them). Stir in cheese. Remove from heat.  If using, stir in hot sauce such as Frank’s RedHot. Taste and add more salt and/or pepper if needed. Stir in parsley and mint.

3. Ladle into bowls and provide more cheese at the table for optional garnishing.

Award-winning food writer Cathy Thomas has written three cookbooks, including “50 Best Plants on the Planet.” Follow her at CathyThomasCooks.com.

Sometimes it’s very simple combinations of ingredients that wow the palate; a bowl of perfectly seasoned olives teamed with sliced salami; wedges of crisp sweet-tart apple paired with aged white cheddar; blanched greens sautéed with pancetta, garlic and red chili flakes. Or, a stunning “carpaccio” made with raw paper-thin zucchini slices, buttery extra-virgin olive oil, fresh lemon juice, shaved Parmigiano Reggiano and toasted pine nuts. It’s a classic concoction with roots in the south of France.

The components, because there are so few, need to be perfect. The extra-virgin olive oil plays a crucial role; it needs to be aromatic and buttery, almost sweet. The zucchini needs to be thinly sliced, a mandoline is handy for this.

Zucchini Carpaccio

Yield: 6 to 8 servings

INGREDIENTS

1 pound medium zucchini (diameter about the size of a quarter)

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Juice of 1 lemon

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

4 tablespoons shaved Parmigiano Reggiano

4 tablespoons toasted pine nuts; see cook’s notes

Cook’s notes: To toast pine nuts, place in small dry skillet on medium heat. Shake handle frequently to redistribute pine nuts, cooking until lightly browned. Watch carefully because they burn easily. Cool completely before use.

DIRECTIONS

1. Trim zucchini ends. Cut into paper-thin slices using a mandolin or vegetable peeler. Arrange the zucchini slices, slightly overlapping, on a large, flat platter. Cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate until ready to serve.

2. In a small bowl whisk the olive oil and lemon juice. Just before serving, whisk the olive oil dressing briefly to blend it, drizzle it over the zucchini, season with salt and pepper, scatter the cheese and the pine nuts on top, and serve.

Source: Pascal Lorange, former executive chef at the now shuttered Fig & Olive restaurant in Newport Beach

Award-winning food writer Cathy Thomas has written three cookbooks, including “50 Best Plants on the Planet.” Follow her at CathyThomasCooks.com.