On a recent afternoon, I had a call from my schoolteacher daughter. Her voice sounded low pitched and gravelly, more like actor Harvey Fierstein than her usual Mary Poppins. Nose blowing trumpeted after many sentences. I knew that homemade chicken noodle soup would help allay her symptoms, but I needed the process to be quick and easy.
I thumbed through Julia Turshen’’s newest cookbook “What Goes With What” (Flatiron Books) and found a recipe dubbed “Fastest Chicken Noodle Soup.” Bingo. I had all the ingredients on hand so once I cut up the chicken and carrots, the cooking took less than 20 minutes.
Two things, easy things. I found that as the soup sat and cooled enough to package, the noodles absorbed some of the broth. So, I added additional broth. And for added acidity, I added a generous splash of Frank’s RedHot. The sauce added a needed spark of tartness as well as a welcome subtle spiciness.
2 large (or 3 medium) carrots, peeled, cut into bite-size pieces
2 teaspoons kosher salt
2 teaspoons garlic powder
2 teaspoons sweet paprika; see cook’s notes
10 cups boiling water (or not boiling, but the soup will take a little longer to cook)
2 tablespoons Better Than Bouillon Roasted Chicken Base
One 12-ounce package wide egg noodles
2 large garlic cloves, minced
For serving: chopped fresh dill or Italian parsley
Optional: Frank’s RedHot
Cook’s notes: Generally I have a red tin of Sweet Hungarian paprika in my fridge (yes I keep paprika in my refrigerator). But the last time I did a super cleaning, I pitched it because it dated back to the Clinton presidency. I used standard (not hot) paprika and it was fine.
DIRECTIONS
1. Place oil in large heavy pot (such as a Dutch oven) over high heat. Add chicken and carrots, and season with salt, garlic powder, and paprika. Cook, stirring now and then, until chicken is opaque all over and just barely firm, about 8 minutes (it’s ok if it’s not totally cooked through at this point).
2. Add the water to the pot and stir in the Better Than Bouillon; do this cautiously because it may splatter at first. Bring to a boil (this should be nearly instant if you’re using boiling water). Turn down heat to medium. Stir in the egg noodles and cook, stirring occasionally, until they are just tender, about 5 to 6 minutes. Stir in minced garlic and if using, add Frank’s RedHot to taste.
3. Taste and add salt if needed. Sprinkle fresh dill or parsley on top of each serving.
Source: “What Goes With What” by Julia Turshen (Flatiron Books)
Getting family and friends together over food should be a wonderful time, but Thanksgiving has a way of bringing up conflict. Differing opinions, cherished traditions and family feuds – everyone has thoughts on Thanksgiving food. If you are considering the unthinkable this year and changing up the traditional turkey-based menu, here’s how to navigate the battlefield.
Many people look forward to the spread on the Thanksgiving Day table all year long. They anticipate turkey, stuffing, cranberry sauce, potatoes and pie, as well as the leftovers in the following days. There is space for disagreements here – should you roast or deep fry the turkey? Do you serve mashed potatoes or sweet potatoes? Is homemade or canned cranberry sauce best?
But what if you want to leave these traditional foods off the menu altogether? Removing turkey from the Thanksgiving feast has been known to tear families apart – leading to a fight of epic proportions for some. Forgetting potatoes could cause months of silent treatment. Neglecting to serve pie might require writing family members out of the will.
If you still dare to change up your Thanksgiving menu, these entrees and sides are worthy competitors to the turkey. They might even become your new favorite holiday dishes.
Top turkey alternatives for Thanksgiving dinner
Marca reports that approximately 88% of households in the United States eat turkey on Thanksgiving. Despite the bird’s popularity, several other delicious entrees make for equally show-stopping main dishes for a holiday feast. If you are not a fan of turkey yourself, need to meet dietary restrictions or simply looking for something different, try these alternatives instead.
Poultry and beef Thanksgiving entrees
Duck is a wonderful alternative to turkey. With a rich taste, tender meat and crispy skin, it can be a luxurious treat. You can roast or smoke a whole duck as you would a turkey. For a smaller serving or faster preparation time, pan-seared duck breast is simple yet lavish enough for a Thanksgiving entree.
A turkey roulade is an excellent choice if you prefer not to cook an entire bird. You get to serve the traditional turkey stuffed with seasonal flavors in a beautifully presented dish, but it takes less time and effort to prepare. The smaller dish is also perfect if you have a more intimate gathering or don’t want a lot of leftovers.
You can also forgo poultry altogether. A prime rib roast is flavorful, festive and sure to please the meat lovers at your party. It is also often big enough to serve a larger group and provide leftovers.
Vegetarian and vegan Thanksgiving entrees
A centerpiece vegetarian entree should be satisfying and packed with seasonal flavors. The best entrees may even surpass turkey as a favorite among your guests.
Stuffed squash with grains, nuts, cranberries and herbs brings together fall flavors in a hearty and filling dish. A mushroom wellington, offering a spin on a classic beef wellington, combines a delicious mushroom filling with flaky vegan puff pastry for an attractive Thanksgiving entree.
Extra-creative entrees that aren’t turkey
Since Thanksgiving celebrates community and coming together, serving global specialties can uniquely mix up the menu. French coq a vin, your favorite pasta dish or an Indian curry brings exciting new flavors. You can also choose a coastal-inspired Thanksgiving and serve salmon, shrimp, lobster or your other preferred fish. The luxury of seafood is sure to reduce any complaints about missing turkey.
Switching up sides: Non-traditional Thanksgiving side dishes
When it comes to sides, there are dozens of ways to break from tradition. You may also have a bit more leeway. Adding an extra side or two might be less likely to get you ostracized from future holidays, especially if you serve them along with a few traditional sides.
International dishes, beloved recipes from other holidays or untested recipes you’ve been waiting to try can all fit on the Thanksgiving table. Go extremely untraditional with appetizers like tamales or fried wontons or improvise on classic sides. Serve roasted fresh green beans instead of casserole or pair homemade apple butter with the dinner rolls.
Divisive desserts for Thanksgiving
Pie might be the traditional Thanksgiving dessert, but don’t limit yourself to plain pumpkin, apple or pecan pie. Try a chocolate pumpkin pie or add cranberries to an apple pie for extra flavors. Or tempt your guests with a delicious chocolate pie, banana cream pie or blueberry pie for something completely different.
You can also stick with traditional flavors, yet serve them in new ways. Pumpkin pie bites, apple crisp or pumpkin cheesecake ice cream give those familiar fall vibes without a pie’s standard crust and filling.
Breaking Thanksgiving tradition without family conflict
Even if you have the most delicious Thanksgiving menu planned, not everyone will necessarily welcome a break from traditional foods. Nostalgia and dishes reserved for the holiday can leave people anticipating Thanksgiving dinner all year.
You can try a few tactics to reduce the chance of conflict as you mix up the menu. Preparing a small turkey alongside another entree like duck or mushroom wellington can satisfy everyone at a large party. Likewise, keep a few favorite sides on the table in addition to new ones. Relying on classic flavors in inventive dishes will also help ease the transition.
Getting the entire party in on non-traditional Thanksgiving cooking can help as well. Make your Thanksgiving or Friendsgiving a potluck and encourage guests to prepare a recipe. In addition to getting guests excited to try new foods, you’ll have less prep work yourself and plenty of people to blame if dinner is missing someone’s favorite dish.
Celebrate a delicious Thanksgiving with exciting new dishes
Planning a Thanksgiving menu can be a complicated dance of choosing traditional favorites while avoiding the same tired flavors. With many people so passionate about their Thanksgiving meal, these decisions may leave you feeling like you’re about to start the next family war. Fortunately, the right delicious dishes and a little bit of persuasion will convince your friends and family to start some new Thanksgiving traditions this year.
Gina Matsoukas is the writer, photographer and recipe creator of Running to the Kitchen. Focusing on healthy, seasonal, whole-food recipes, her work has been featured in various online and print publications including Food Network, Prevention Magazine and Women’s Health. Gina lives in central New York, where she enjoys an active outdoor life.
As Thanksgiving approaches, you might be thinking about the classic dishes on holiday tables across America – turkey, cranberry sauce, stuffing, green bean casserole and pumpkin pie. But if you happen to celebrate Thanksgiving in a different part of the country, you might be surprised by the distinctive flavors and ingredients that make their way onto the holiday table.
From coastal seafood specialties to heartland comfort foods, each area of the country has its own favorites that are a must for Thanksgiving dinner. Let’s explore some mouthwatering alternatives to the standard turkey and stuffing that might inspire you to shake up your Thanksgiving menu this year.
Pumpkin empanadas in Santa Fe
If you are in Santa Fe for Thanksgiving, you might enjoy pumpkin empanadas as part of your feast. These hand-held pastries are filled with spiced pumpkin and dusted with cinnamon sugar.
They’re a fusion of traditional American pumpkin pie and Mexican empanadas. This dish reflects New Mexico’s unique blend of Native American, Spanish and Mexican influences.
Fluff salad in Minnesota
In Minnesota, you’ll encounter an unusual salad: A sweet fluff salad featuring marshmallows. This dessert salad adds a delightful contrast to the savory dishes typically found on the holiday table.
“If it has marshmallows in it, it’s probably a salad and meant to be eaten with the rest of dinner and not as a dessert,” Michelle Price, from the blog Honest and Truly, says. “As a kid, that was the one meal where you never had to ask me twice to eat my salad.”
This quirky salad reflects the Midwestern fondness for sweet, creamy dishes. The sweetness makes it a popular holiday tradition among kids and adults.
Pecan pie in the South
Forget pumpkin pie; your Southern Thanksgiving isn’t complete without a slice of pecan pie. This sweet treat features a gooey filling of corn syrup, eggs, sugar and butter, topped with a layer of pecans.
The nuts create a satisfying crunch contrasting the soft, caramelized interior. Pecan trees are native to the South, making this pie a regional specialty. Many families have their own twists on the classic recipe, like adding bourbon or chocolate chips.
Dungeness crab in Oregon and Washington
In the Pacific Northwest, you likely find Dungeness crab on the Thanksgiving menu. Named after a town on Washington’s Olympic Peninsula, this sweet, tender crab is a regional delicacy.
The crab is simply steamed or made into crab cakes. The season for Dungeness crab opens around Thanksgiving, making it a timely addition to holiday feasts. Its delicate flavor pairs well with the richer dishes on the table.
Manicotti in New York and New Jersey
Italian-American households across New York and New Jersey serve manicotti alongside turkey. These large pasta tubes are stuffed with ricotta cheese and topped with tomato sauce, a nod to the region’s strong Italian heritage.
Including pasta at Thanksgiving is a way for these families to blend their cultural traditions with the American holiday. The hearty, cheesy dish provides a comforting contrast to traditional Thanksgiving flavors.
Clam chowder in New England
You’ll find this creamy seafood soup on many New England Thanksgiving tables. Rich with clams, potatoes and often bacon, it’s a warming start to the feast. From Bagels and Lasagna, Leah Ingram reminisces, “Whenever we would spend Thanksgiving in Maine with my grandparents, we would always have a course with New England clam chowder.”
The chowder’s velvety texture comes from a milk or cream base, making it distinct from tomato-based Manhattan clam chowder. New Englanders take pride in their chowder, which reflects the region’s strong maritime culture.
Frog eye salad in Wyoming and Idaho
Don’t worry; this dish, popular in western states like Wyoming and Idaho, does not involve frogs. Frog eye salad is a sweet pasta salad made with small, round acini di pepe pasta, whipped topping, fruit and marshmallows.
The pasta’s small, round shape is said to resemble frog eyes, hence the quirky name. This unique side dish adds a touch of fun to a Thanksgiving spread and is often a hit with kids.
Sugar cream pie in Indiana
Sugar cream pie, also known as Hoosier pie, is an Indiana staple. Its silky smooth custard filling is made from cream, sugar, flour and vanilla. The simplicity of the ingredients reflects its origins as a desperation pie, made when fresh fruit wasn’t available.
This humble dessert has been an Indiana tradition since the 1800s. It’s so beloved that in 2009, it became the state’s official pie. As Casey Rooney from Get on My Plate exclaims, “There’s no holiday table without a sugar cream pie!”
Sauerkraut in Baltimore
You might be surprised to find sauerkraut at a Baltimore Thanksgiving, but it’s a long-standing tradition. This tangy fermented cabbage dish reflects the city’s German heritage and is served alongside the turkey as a condiment.
The custom dates back to the 19th century when Baltimore had a large German immigrant population. Today, this unique regional twist adds a zesty contrast to the usual Thanksgiving fare.
Funeral potatoes in Utah
Despite the somber name, funeral potatoes are a popular Thanksgiving side in Utah. This cheesy potato casserole topped with crunchy cornflakes appears at many holiday gatherings.
The dish gets its name because it is a go-to casserole for post-funeral luncheons. But its comfort food status makes it a staple at all gatherings, including Thanksgiving.
Grape pie in Upstate New York
In the Finger Lakes region of New York, you’ll encounter the unusual grape pie. This sweet-tart dessert made from local Concord grapes celebrates the area’s vineyards. The filling is similar to a blueberry pie but with a distinct grape flavor.
Grape pie season peaks in fall, making it a perfect addition to the Thanksgiving feast. It’s a labor-intensive dish since the grapes must be individually seeded, but locals swear it’s worth the effort.
Gumbo in New Orleans
Gumbo, a hearty and flavorful stew, is a quintessential New Orleans dish frequently appearing on Thanksgiving tables. It is made with a rich, dark roux along with different meats or seafood, vegetables and Creole seasonings.
The inclusion of gumbo reflects the city’s deep culinary roots and the importance of family traditions. Each family commonly has a cherished gumbo recipe passed down through generations.
Summing up
This Thanksgiving, celebrate the diversity of America by including regional favorites alongside classic dishes like turkey and green bean casserole. Exploring regional flavors will remind everyone of the melting pot that is America. You might just discover a new favorite that becomes a beloved part of your own family’s Thanksgiving tradition.
Anne Jolly is the creator of the food blog Upstate Ramblings. She loves cooking, especially for the holidays.
Thanksgiving faux pas can easily derail what should be a joyful celebration with loved ones. From overlooked dietary needs to unannounced dishes and lingering too long, these missteps can create awkward moments or unnecessary stress for hosts and guests alike.
Avoiding Thanksgiving blunders is simple with a little planning, communication and mindfulness. Here are common mistakes people make during Thanksgiving gatherings and how to avoid them.
Forgetting to accommodate dietary restrictions
Even with all the effort that goes into Thanksgiving planning, one common mistake is overlooking dietary needs and food allergies, leaving some guests with few options. As Shruthi Baskaran-Makanju from Urban Farmie notes, “It’s surprising how often vegetarians or people with food allergies are left with very few options.”
Despite Thanksgiving’s focus on bringing people together around a meal, “it’s easy to miss the mark if someone feels left out,” especially when hosts forget to check in about preferences beforehand. Luckily, the solution is quite easy.
A little extra effort, like offering diverse dishes and labeling allergens, can make a huge difference. Shruthi explains, “A quick check-in and some variety ensures everyone feels included and welcome.” After all, the real spirit of Thanksgiving is creating an environment where everyone at the table feels appreciated.
Bringing unannounced dishes
Thanksgiving can quickly go off track when a guest shows up with an unexpected dish – like an anchovy casserole intended as a new tradition . While creativity in the kitchen is welcome, this holiday revolves around comforting and familiar flavors. Bold additions may not hit the right note with everyone, especially if someone else is hosting.
Unplanned dishes can also create practical challenges. They may duplicate items already on the table or disrupt the carefully planned portions and timing. Some dishes might also risk introducing allergens or dietary conflicts that make guests uncomfortable.
To avoid these issues, it’s best to coordinate with the host before bringing any contributions. A quick check helps ensure the dish fits the meal’s theme and complements the rest of the spread. Crowd-pleasers like pull-apart bread, mashed potatoes and pumpkin pie are safer options that appeal to most guests.
Neglecting to clean up before hosting
A messy house can quickly become a Thanksgiving disaster. Forgetting to tidy up before guests arrive makes it harder to set a welcoming tone. There’s no room for meal prep or serving dishes when the kitchen counters are cluttered. Guests might feel uncomfortable or stressed if they’re stepping over laundry or dodging clutter to find a seat at the table.
Hosting comes with the responsibility of creating an inviting environment, and cleanliness plays a big part in setting the mood. Don’t forget to clean up the carpet – stains or crumbs can make even a cozy space feel neglected and unwelcoming.
A clean, organized space not only shows respect for your guests but also helps everything run smoothly. It’s much easier to enjoy the meal when the host isn’t scrambling to find utensils, counter space or napkins at the last minute.
You don’t need to deep clean the entire house. Start with key areas: Clear the entryway for shoes and coats, tidy the bathroom and wipe down kitchen counters. A quick vacuum of the carpet will make the space look fresh and ready for guests. If time is tight, enlist family members to help or focus on essential areas guests will use.
Forgetting to taste dishes before serving
One food-related Thanksgiving faux pas that can lead to disappointment is forgetting to taste the dishes before they hit the table. Skipping this simple step can result in a less-than-perfect meal. With the hustle and bustle of preparing multiple dishes, it’s easy to assume everything is fine, but a quick taste test can save the day.
Dishes that are too bland or intense in flavor may leave guests unsatisfied, and adjustments can’t be made once the food is served. A little seasoning tweak beforehand can improve the entire meal and ensure everything is as delicious as it looks.
As you finish cooking each dish, take a moment to taste it and adjust the seasoning if necessary. Keeping a small spoon handy for quick taste tests can prevent a last-minute flavor failure. Alternatively, you can follow tried-and-tested holiday recipes like a cheese ball instead of eyeballing your measurements to make sure the flavor is just right.
Assuming you can take home leftovers
Thanksgiving leftovers are a treat, but assuming you can take some home without being invited is a common faux pas. Hosts may have plans for the food or want to distribute it evenly among guests. Helping yourself without asking can come off as inconsiderate.
If you’d like leftovers, politely say, “If you have extras, I’d love to take some!” Bringing your own containers shows thoughtfulness and saves the host from losing their Tupperware.
Showing up empty handed
Bringing unannounced dishes can be rude, but that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t bring something to the gathering. Thanksgiving is a communal holiday, and contributing something, even small, shows appreciation for the host’s hard work. Even if the host says, “Just bring yourself,” it’s always a nice gesture to arrive with something in hand.
A bottle of wine, a bouquet of flowers or even an easy appetizer can go a long way in expressing gratitude. For guests who don’t cook, a thoughtful contribution like artisanal bread or store-bought treats is still appreciated.
Overstaying your welcome
Finally, here’s a faux pas that many people are guilty of. Thanksgiving gatherings are meant to be enjoyed, but lingering too long after the meal can unintentionally stress the host, especially if they’re tired or ready to wind down. Staying late when the cleanup begins or other guests leave can disrupt the host’s plans for the evening and make it harder for them to relax after a long day of hosting.
A good tip is to pay attention to cues – if the host starts cleaning or guests begin to leave, it’s a good time to wrap things up. A polite thank you shows appreciation without overstaying. If you want more time together, suggest meeting up again soon.
Try to keep these mistakes in mind this holiday season
Thanksgiving is about gathering, sharing good food and creating memories, but avoiding common faux pas helps create a smoother celebration. Overlooking dietary restrictions, bringing surprise dishes or overstaying can unintentionally disrupt the day. Thoughtful actions, like coordinating with the host, offering to help clean and waiting for an invite to take leftovers, show respect and consideration.
At its core, Thanksgiving is about gratitude for the meal and the effort behind it. A little preparation and mindfulness help create a joyful, harmonious celebration for everyone involved.
Jessica Haggard is dedicated to helping people cook easy everyday recipes focusing on nourishing foods. She helps people overcome food allergies and discover healthy recipes that make a difference in their health with gluten-free, low-carb and keto cooking at Primal Edge Health.
Deborah Reinhardt has fond memories of her mother and grandmother cooking in aprons dusted with flour or other signs of that day’s meal. And then there were the special occasions.
“Grandma, especially, wore the fancier ones with ruffles and silky fabric for serving Thanksgiving dinner,” says Reinhardt, who lives in St. Louis and runs a food blog called Three Women in the Kitchen.
She regretted that she hadn’t saved any of those family heirlooms, but then her daughter gave her a special gift one Mother’s Day: a frilly apron. “Whenever I use it, memories of Mom and Bubba come alive. It’s almost like putting on a superhero’s cape; I feel like I can tackle anything in the kitchen,” Reinhardt says.
Aprons carry all kinds of associations. Professional cooks and contestants on TV cooking shows wear large, utilitarian ones: grill masters might have the goofy “BBQ Dad” variety.
There’s something empowering about cooking with an apron on; it says you are Creating a Meal. EllynAnne Geisel, a self-described “apron archaeologist,” likens these pieces of cloth to “domestic armor.”
“Aprons don’t hold us back — they take us back,” she writes in “The Apron Book: Making, Wearing, and Sharing a Bit of Cloth and Comfort.”
And she notes that aprons are worn by a range of professionals, from cooks and bakers to fishmongers, welders and carpenters.
A look at some current apron styles:
As seen on ‘The Bear,’ ‘Top Chef’ and other shows
Katie Brown, a writer at Food & Wine, spotted something consistent among her favorite cooking shows “The Bear,” “Is It Cake?” and “Top Chef.”
“The chefs on my TV not only make cooking look easy, but they look great while doing it,” Brown says.
Many of those chefs wear an apron from Hedley and Bennett, a brand started by a pro chef. Their “Essential” version is made of sturdy cotton twill, and features adjustable neck and waist straps and lots of big and small pockets. (“The Bear” star Jeremy Allen White often wears a dark blue one, a nod to the French Laundry restaurant in Napa Valley, California, which became known for its chefs’ blue aprons.)
It’s the pockets that have won over Brown’s colleague, associate editorial director Chandra Ram.
“For me, pockets make the apron. I want to be able to stash a Sharpie and a few pieces of paper towel,” says Ram. “And I like the straps to be long enough that I can tie them in front so I can hang a dish towel to use to grab a hot pan or clean up a spill. I bought kids’ versions for my nieces and nephews for when we bake together.”
Other pro-style brands include Under NY Sky, Chef Works, Bragard and Cargo Crew.
Apron variations around the world
Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street nods to Japanese restaurants with the maekake, which resembles the cotton banners often seen at their entrances. Maekeke is the term for traditional Japanese workwear dating to the 16th century.
Milk Street’s version, made of indigo cotton, features an Arctic tern and the Japanese lettering for their address in Boston, 177 Milk Street.
Fans of Finnish design house Marimekko ’s prints might add an apron to their wardrobe. Choose from bold, black-and-white or colorful graphics and florals, each with a front pocket and adjustable neck strap. Many patterns have coordinating pot holders and oven mitts.
Apron designs at Portugalia Marketplace include one with colorful illustrations of sardine cans, a buzzy food trend. And a Mediterranean blue and white tile-patterned apron will make you feel like you’re in a tasca, or little restaurant, in Porto.
Cooks the world over can toast their furry friends with one of Design Imports’ aprons featuring romping dogs and cats.
For real retro, try a riff on a pinafore or flour sack
Aprons became common in the early 1900s, when America’s first chain restaurant, Harvey House, was created by Fred Harvey. The “Harvey Girls” — the wait staff’s moniker – wore floor-length white aprons. Judy Garland wore one in the 1946 “Harvey Girls” film and they became popular in American households.
And flour companies in the 1920s came out with aprons made from repurposed feed or flour sacks.
Uncommon Goods has some fun ones repurposed from old sacks and made by artisans in Ghana. The aprons feature a cheery patchwork on one side, and are reversible. Makers are part of the Fair Trade Federation, which supports local craftswomen.
New York-based writer Kim Cook covers design and decor topics regularly for The AP. Follow her on Instagram at @kimcookhome.
Fuyu persimmons are the variety that boasts a tomato-like shape. Unlike the other common variety, the bold orange, heart shaped Hachiya persimmons, Fuyu beauties have a lighter color and can be eaten when as firm as an apple.
I like to use them in fruit compotes, the unpeeled wedges cooked in a sugar syrup of dry white wine and sugar augmented with a cinnamon stick and star anise. The made- ahead spiced fruit is delicious served atop tapioca pudding or yogurt, but my favorite is on a generous scoop of ice cream. Serve a crisp cookie with each serving, such as a butter cookie or palmier.
Fuyu Persimmon Compote Topping
Yield: 6 to 8 servings
INGREDIENTS
1 cup dry white wine
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1 star anise
Pinch salt
4 Fuyu persimmons, rinsed, dried, leaves removed, cut into wedges
For serving: ice cream and crisp cookies
DIRECTIONS
1. Bring wine, sugar, star anise, cinnamon and a pinch of salt to a boil in a medium saucepan, stirring occasionally. Reduce heat to medium-low heat and simmer for 7 minutes. Add persimmons and stir to coat fruit with syrup. Simmer, covered, until tender about 20 minutes, stirring 2 times in the process and returning lid.
2. Cool. Refrigerate until chilled; can be refrigerated covered up to two days. Serve fruit atop ice cream transferring it with a slotted spoon.
Source: Adapted from Martha Stewart Living magazine
Award-winning food writer Cathy Thomas has written three cookbooks, including “50 Best Plants on the Planet.” Follow her at CathyThomas Cooks.com.
Meatballs are made in countries across the globe and are widely loved.
They’re often bite-sized — though they also can be rather large, most notably those Chinese “lion’s head” meatballs — and popular with kids, who love food that can be popped into their mouths.
Some say they were first made in Persia (where they are called kofta) and then spread to other regions. Wherever it started, the tradition of mixing small amounts of minced meat with breadcrumbs, rice, potatoes, cheese or eggs has been a hit with home cooks for generations.
Whether you fry or bake meatballs depends on where you live, as well as what herbs and spices are used to make them.
These Southeast Asian-style pork meatballs from Yotam Ottolenghi’s latest cookbook “Ottolenghi Comfort” (Ten Speed Press, $38) get much of their flavor from umami-rich fish sauce, a condiment widely used in Vietnamese cooking.
Beefed up with leftover cooked rice, the mix also gets an aromatic boost from fresh mint and finely chopped cilantro stems along with garlic and minced shallot. But what really sets them apart is the bright-red, totally addictive homemade nuoc cham dipping sauce that gets poured on top.
Also used to dress fresh salads, spring rolls and noodle bowls throughout Asia, the pungent condiment is made by crushing two types of red chile with a pestle in a mortar along with sugar, lime juice and fish sauce. It’s a one-two punch for home cooks: In addition to being colorful, the sauce offers a perfect balance of sour, sweet, spicy, savory and salty flavors.
While this type of meatball is often skewered and grilled over an open flame in Thailand and Vietnam, Ottolenghi chooses to pan-fry them so there’s no need for skewers.
“It also allows us to eat them with our hands in lettuce cups, which we love,” he writes in the cookbook.
Lovely as a family snack, these meatballs also can be served over rice noodles in a bowl, or tossed along with herbs and more of the dipping sauce as a salad.
To use whole iceberg lettuce leaves as wrappers, whack a head of lettuce core-side down on the counter to detach the core, pull it out and place the head upside down under a cold running tap, allowing the water to run through. The water will get between the layers and help separate them without tearing.
Meatballs with Nuoc Cham, Cucumber and Mint
PG tested
For meatballs
2 garlic cloves, crushed
1 shallot, finely chopped
1/4 cup chopped cilantro stems, save leaves for garnish
1/2 cup finely chopped mint leaves
1 1/2 tablespoons fish sauce
1 tablespoon sugar
1/2 cup leftover cooked rice
1 pound 2 ounces ground pork
5 tablespoons vegetable oil, for frying
Salt and white pepper
For nuoc cham
2 garlic cloves, roughly chopped
1 small red bird’s-eye chile, roughly chopped
1 large mild red chiie, roughly sliced
1/4 teaspoon flaked salt
2 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons lime juice
1/4 cup fish sauce
1/4 cup rice wine vinegar
To serve
1 small head iceberg lettuce, separated into leaves
1/2 cucumber, thinly sliced
Make meatballs: Place garlic, shallot, cilantro, mint, fish sauce and sugar in a medium bowl with 1/4 teaspoon salt and 3/4 teaspoon white pepper. Stir well to combine, until sugar dissolves, then add rice and meat.
Mix well, then form into roughly 1-ounce balls — you should get around 24. Flatten them slightly and place on a baking sheet. Keep in fridge until ready to cook
Make nuoc cham. Put garlic, chiles and flaked salt into a mortar and pestle and pound to form a wet paste.
Add remaining ingredients, then transfer to a screw top jar. Shake vigorously and keep in the fridge until ready to serve. If you don’t have a mortar and pestle, place ingredients in a food processor and pulse until the chiles and garlic are broken up.
When ready to serve, prepare salad platter by stacking the lettuce cups on the side of the plate and strewing the cucumber and reserved herbs around. Pour nuoc cham into one large bowl for group dipping, or several small serving bowls so everyone has their own dipping sauce.
Put half the oil in a large frying pan and place on medium-high heat.
Add half the patties and cook for 4-5 minutes, turning them halfway, until cooked through.
Add the rest of the oil to the pan and continue with the remaining batch. Transfer to the salad patter and serve warm or at room temperature.
Serves 4.
“Ottolenghi Comfort: A Cookbook” by Yotam Ottolenghi
I’m no stranger to roasting turkeys. I cooked my first Thanksgiving dinner at 21, and in the decades to follow, I’ve tried just about every imaginable technique for cooking that holiday bird. Well, I never deep fried it, but year after year, I’ve done my share of experimenting, from brining to spatchcocking. I’ve roasted it upside down and right side up, some stuffed, others unstuffed. Yes, I have done my share of turkey rubbing, soaking, and injecting.
America’s Test Kitchen has done its share of turkey testing, too. One of its methods that I most enjoy involves a few hours of salt-water soaking followed by building aromatic flavors throughout the bird with a tasty paste. The paste-like mix teams a combination of fresh herbs with lemon zest, minced shallots and garlic, plus a little Dijon mustard and olive oil. Once whirled in the food processor, part of the mixture is rubbed under the skin of the turkey’s breasts, thighs, and drumsticks, an uncomplicated process if you first remove any large cocktail rings and don’t have long, pointy fingernails.
The next step is somewhat surprising, but it adds a lot of flavors to the white meat. Using a sharp paring knife, a smallish slit is cut into each breast, about 1 1/2-inches deep. An expansive pocket is created by sweeping the blade’s tip back and forth. A tablespoon of the paste is added to each pocket. Initially, I was concerned that cutting the skin, even a little, might cause the meat to dry out. But it doesn’t. Overcooking, heaven forbid, is what could dry it out.
Additional paste is divided between the cavity and exterior of the turkey, and I sometimes save a 1/2 teaspoon to add to the gravy.
This herb roast turkey is delicious served with a mashed potato concoction that pairs the spuds with parsnips. The flavors are beguiling.
Happy Thanksgiving!
America’s Test Kitchen Herbed Roast Turkey
INGREDIENTS
Brine:
2 cups table salt, see cook’s notes
2 gallons cold water
One 12- to 14-pound turkey, rinsed thoroughly with cold water, giblets and neck reserved for gravy (if using), tailpiece removed; see cook’s notes for larger turkey instructions
2 medium cloves garlic, minced or pressed through garlic press (about 2 teaspoons)
3/4 teaspoon grated lemon zest, from 1 lemon
3/4 teaspoon table salt
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1/4 cup olive oil
Equipment: roasting pan and a V-rack, heavy duty aluminum foil, instant-read thermometer, sharp paring knife, large pot if brining
Cook’s notes: If you buy a turkey that has been injected with saline, such as a Butterball turkey, reduce the amount of salt in the brine to 1 cup. Or, if you are salt sensitive, omit the brining process.
If roasting a 14- to 18-pound bird, increase all of the ingredients for the herb paste (except the black pepper) by 50%; follow the instructions for applying the paste under the skin, in the breast pockets, and in the cavity; use the remaining paste on the skin. Increase the second half of the roasting time (breast side up) to 1 hour, 15 minutes.
Is it done at 165 degrees? Here is what the Butterball Turkey Site says: “Only by using a food thermometer can one accurately determine that poultry has reached a safe minimum internal temperature of 165 degrees throughout the product. Turkey can remain pink even after cooking to a safe minimum internal temperature of 165 degrees.
DIRECTIONS
For the wet brine, dissolve salt in 2 gallons cold water in large stockpot. Add turkey and refrigerate 4 to 6 hours. (I consider this optional, especially if I’m roasting a turkey that has been injected with a saline solution — see cook’s notes.)
Remove turkey from brine and rinse under cool running water. Pat it dry inside and out with paper towels. Place turkey breast side up on flat wire rack set over rimmed baking sheet or roasting pan and refrigerate, uncovered, 30 minutes.
For the herb paste: Process parsley, thyme, sage, rosemary, shallot, garlic, lemon zest, salt, and pepper in food processor until consistency of coarse paste, about 10 2-second pulses. Add mustard and olive oil; continue to process until mixture forms smooth paste, about ten to twelve 2-second pulses; scrape sides of processor bowl with rubber spatula after 5 pulses. Transfer mixture to small bowl.
For the turkey: Adjust oven rack to lowest position; heat oven to 400 degrees. Line large V-rack with heavy-duty foil and use paring knife or skewer to poke 20 to 30 holes in foil; set V-rack in large roasting pan. Remove turkey from refrigerator and wipe away any water; set turkey breast side up on a dry rimmed baking sheet. Tuck wings behind back and tuck tips of drumsticks into skin at tail to secure.
Using hands, carefully loosen skin from meat of breasts, thighs, and drumsticks. Using spoon, slip 1 1/2 tablespoons paste under breast skin on each side of turkey. Using fingers, distribute paste under skin over breast, thigh, and drumstick meat.
Using sharp paring knife, cut 1 1/2-inch vertical slit into thickest part of each breast. Starting from top of incision, swing knife tip down to create am4- to 5-inch pocket within flesh. Place 1 tablespoon paste in pocket of each breast; using fingers, rub in thin, even layer.
Rub 1 tablespoon paste inside turkey cavity. Rotate turkey breast side down; apply half remaining herb paste to turkey skin; flip turkey breast side up and apply remaining herb paste to skin, pressing and patting to make paste adhere; reapply herb paste that falls onto baking sheet.
To roast turkey: Place turkey breast side down on prepared V-rack in roasting pan. Roast 45 minutes.
Remove roasting pan with turkey from oven (close oven door to retain oven heat). Using clean potholders (or 2 thick wads of paper towels), rotate turkey breast side up. Continue to roast until thickest part of breast registers 165 degrees and thickest part of thigh registers 170 degrees on instant-read thermometer, 50 to 65 minutes longer. Confirm temperature by inserting an instant-read thermometer in both sides of bird (see cook’s notes). Transfer turkey to carving board; let rest 30 minutes. Carve turkey and serve. Yield: 10 servings
My mother made delicious turkey gravy. She used a pureed slurry made of broth and flour, and somehow turned it into a luscious mix. Although the technique worked for her, for me this formula from cookbook author’s Rick Rodgers is foolproof. Almost as good as my childhood palate memories.
Mashed Potatoes and Parsnips
Parsnips add a delightful note to mashed potatoes. Yes, they look like frumpy carrots, the skin’s hue a drab tan or pale yellow, the flesh watered-down beige. They may not be lookers, but they are an irresistible blend of sweet carrot and herbaceous parsley-like flavors. Look for firm parsnips that are about 8- to 10-inches long. Refrigerate dry and unwashed in crisper drawer in a plastic bag up to 3 weeks. Wash before use; trim ends and peel with a swivel-bladed peeler.
Yield: 8 servings
INGREDIENTS
6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) butter, divided use
2 1/2 large yellow onions, halved, sliced
2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary or 2 teaspoons dried
6 parsnips, peeled, thickly sliced
4 large russet potatoes, peeled, thickly sliced
1 cup milk, heated
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
DIRECTIONS
1. Melt 1 1/2 tablespoons butter in heavy large skillet over medium-high heat. Add onions and cook until golden, stirring often, about 15 minutes. Mix in rosemary. (Can be made 4 hours ahead. Cover and let stand at room temperature.)
2. Bring large pot of salted water to boil. Add parsnips and potatoes; boil until tender, about 20 minutes. Drain well. Return vegetables to pot; mash. Add warm milk and 4 1/2 tablespoons butter; stir until smooth. Coarsely chop onions and stir into mixture, adding all the pan juices. Season with salt and pepper. (Can be made 6 hours ahead. Cover; chill. Rewarm over medium-high heat, stirring frequently and adding more milk if too dry.)
Source: Adapted from Bon Appétit magazine
Turkey Gravy
INGREDIENTS
Drippings from roast turkey
2 quarts canned chicken broth or homemade turkey broth; see cook’s notes
Melted butter, as needed
3/4 cup all-purpose flour
Optional: 1/4 cup bourbon, port, or dry sherry
Salt to taste, if needed
Cook’s notes: To made turkey broth, place a quartered onion, a stalk of celery, a carrot, and the turkey neck and giblets in a large saucepan or Dutch oven. Cover the mix with either 2 quarts chicken broth or water. Bring to a boil; reduce heat to low to maintain a very gentle simmer for 2 hours. Strain.
DIRECTIONS
Remove turkey from roasting pan. Pour the drippings from the pan into a heatproof glass bowl or large measuring cup. Allow to stand 5 minutes. Skim off the clear yellow fat that has risen to the top. Measure 3/4 cup fat; add melted butter if needed to make the right amount.
Measure 8 cups of broth (you may not need it all). Place roasting pan on two stove burners over low heat and add 3/4 cup fat. Whisk in flour, scraping up the browned bits on the bottom of the pan until lightly browned, about 2 minutes. Whisk in 6 cups of broth, adding it gradually, and bourbon if using. Cook, whisking constantly on medium heat until gravy has thickened, and no trace of raw flour taste remains, about 5 to 6 minutes. If gravy is too thick, stir in more broth and continue to cook. Taste. Add salt if needed. Yield: 10 servings
Source: “Thanksgiving 101” by Rick Rodgers
Award-winning food writer Cathy Thomas has written three cookbooks, including “50 Best Plants on the Planet.” Follow her at CathyThomas Cooks.com.
Stroganoff is an old Russian stand-by usually made with beef or turkey. Here’s a modern version made with hamburger meat.
The mixture of mushrooms, tomato paste, mustard and a dash of Worcestershire sauce gives the stroganoff sauce a tangy blend of flavors and a thick texture.
HELPFUL HINT:
Any type of sliced mushrooms can be used.
COUNTDOWN:
Place water for noodles on to boil.
Start stroganoff recipe.
Boil noodles.
While noodles cooks, complete stroganoff.
Drain pasta and place on plates. Serve stroganoff on top of noodles.
SHOPPING LIST:
To buy: 3/4 pound 95 percent lean ground beef, 1 large green bell pepper, 1/2 pound sliced button mushrooms, 1 container unsalted chicken broth, 1 small can tomato paste, 1 jar Dijon mustard, 12 small bottle Worcestershire Sauce, 1 carton reduced-fat sour cream, 1 bunch fresh parsley, 1/4 pound flat eff noodles.
Staples: olive oil, onion, black peppercorns.
Burger Stroganoff
Recipe by Linda Gassenheimer
2 teaspoons olive oil, divided use
3/4 pound 95 percent lean ground beef
1 cup fresh diced onion
1 cup diced green bell pepper
1/2 pound sliced button mushrooms, (about 3 cups)
3/4 cup fat-free, unsalted chicken broth
2 tablespoons no-salt-added tomato paste
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
3 tablespoons reduced-fat sour cream, divided use
Freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
Heat one teaspoon of oil in a nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Add the ground beef and break it up into small pieces with the sides of a cooking spoon, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a plate. Add the second teaspoon of oil to the skillet along with the onion and green bell pepper. Saute 2 minutes. Add mushrooms and continue to saute for 3 minutes more. Add broth, tomato paste, mustard and Worcestershire sauce. Mix thoroughly. Simmer 2 to 3 minutes. Taste. You may need to add a little more mustard. There should be a delicate blend of flavors. Return the ground beef to the skillet and add 1 tablespoon sour cream and black pepper to taste. Mix thoroughly. Divide in half and serve over the egg noodles. Sprinkle with chopped parsley. Place 1 tablespoon sour cream on top of the stroganoff on each plate.
Yield 2 servings.
Per serving: 405 calories (37 percent from fat), 16.8 g fat (6.2 g saturated, 6.7 g monounsaturated), 117 mg cholesterol, 44.0 g protein, 20.3 g carbohydrates, 4.7 g fiber, 402 mg sodium.
Egg Noodles
Recipe by Linda Gassenheimer
1/4 pound flat egg noodles (about 2 1/2-cups)
2 teaspoons olive oil
3 tablespoons water from noodles
Freshly ground black pepper
Bring a large pot 3/4 full of water to a boil. Add the noodles. Boil 10 minutes. Remove 3 tablespoons cooking liquid to a mixing bowl and add oil to the bowl. Drain noodles and add to the bowl. Add pepper to taste. Toss well. Divide in half and place on 2 dinner plates.
Yield 2 servings.
Per serving: 259 calories (24 percent from fat), 7.0 g fat (1.3 g saturated, 2.9 g monounsaturated), 48 mg cholesterol, 8.1 g protein, 40.6 g carbohydrates, 1.9 g fiber, 12 mg sodium.
(Linda Gassenheimer is the author of over 30 cookbooks, including her newest, “The 12-Week Diabetes Cookbook.” Listen to Linda on www.WDNA.org and all major podcast sites. Email her at Linda@DinnerInMinutes.com.)
PITTSBURGH — Most every restaurant worth its salt (and sugar) has a killer dessert on the menu that assures diners will leave the table on a sweet and happy note.
If it’s prepared on site, that often entails employing a professional pastry chef, which can prove expensive for places that are new and trying to keep costs down while getting established.
That was Cory Hughes’ quandary when he opened Fig & Ash on East Ohio Street in Pittsburgh’s North Side Deutschtown neighborhood with his brother-in-law, Alex Feltovich, in 2020.
Hughes — a former Marine who was an executive chef at Google’s Pittsburgh campus and has also cooked in several restaurants around town including Six Penn Kitchen, Eleven Contemporary Kitchen and Spoon — knew he wanted an approachable dessert that would be easy to plate and, perhaps, lend itself to sharing.
But with limited staff, he also knew he couldn’t go super fancy, at least not right out of the gate.
What he and his culinary staff ended up deciding on after considerable deliberation was a confection that most people have loved since they were kids: an upscale version of a thick and gooey chocolate brownie.
Or as he frames it, “We wanted to do something nostalgic.”
Originally, Hughes thought they might be able to create the dessert using the restaurant’s wood-fired oven. When that proved unsuccessful for various reasons, they opted for the next best thing — making it “camping-style” by cooking it in individual cast-iron skillets.
While the first couple of batches were tasty enough, Hughes says the dessert didn’t prove great until he tweaked the batter with a better chocolate — he uses Callebaut dark chocolate pistoles crafted in Belgium — and added a little Kahlua, a liqueur made with rum, sugar and arabica coffee beans.
“It gave it the flavor I was looking for,” he says. “What goes better after dinner than coffee?”
The result is a gooey brownie with a cakey exterior that reminds Hughes of the chocolate batter he used to lick off a spoon when he was a kid.
Today, the dessert is a Fig & Ash mainstay, a dessert so beloved that on the rare occasion Hughes takes it off the menu, “people complain.”
To keep it fresh, the restaurant occasionally changes up the flavor of local ice cream that goes on top. Currently, it’s being served with Millie’s Homemade Coffee Break, which is made in the company’s Homestead production facility using freshly brewed, sustainably sourced coffee and Pennsylvania sweet cream.
The dessert is further elevated by a sprinkle of Maldon sea salt flakes, which adds a crackle of salty flavor.
“It’s just a really feel-good dessert,” says Hughes of the lovely salty-sweet combo.
Fig & Ash Cast-Iron Kahlua Brownies
PG tested
This recipe is a (very) scaled-down version of the dessert that’s been made at Fig & Ash since its opening in 2020. It requires individual-sized (10-ounce) cast-iron skillets.
Pistoles look like slightly larger, slightly flatter chocolate chips. They melt more quickly and don’t need to be chopped.
1 pound butter, diced
18 ounces chocolate pistoles
8 eggs
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
1/2 tablespoon salt
2 cups white sugar
1 cup brown sugar
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon Kahlua coffee liqueur
Vanilla or coffee ice cream, for topping
Flaky salt for garnish, such as Maldon
Melt butter in saucepan. Once melted, stir in the chocolate pistoles. Let sit until you have a melty pool of chocolate.
In large bowl, whisk eggs completely. Fold in vanilla, salt, sugar, brown sugar and melted chocolate, and whisk until incorporated.
Add in flour and stir until fully incorporated.
Spray 8 individual-sized (10-ounce) cast iron skillets with shortening to prevent sticking.
Divide batter among skillets.
Bake at 350 degrees for 22 minutes. Remove from oven and top with a scoop of vanilla or coffee ice cream and a sprinkle of flaky salt, such as Maldon.
At 50 years old, Meals on Wheels endures as a staple for many homebound seniors.
Some 251 million nutritious meals are delivered daily to 2.2 million seniors by volunteers throughout the U.S. who might stop and chat for a bit. Drivers serve as “eyes and ears,” too, many of them trained to look for problem situations with the senior and/or their home.
But the federal Older Americans Act, which provides a portion of the funding for organizations to operate their meal delivery programs, does not cover meals for holidays. That includes Thanksgiving, Hanukkah, Christmas, Easter and Passover.
That doesn’t mean Meals on Wheels operations stop. Plenty of volunteers show up to prepare, pack and deliver hot meals and cheer to residents who might otherwise be alone — and hungry — on days when many families gather in festive celebration.
But putting together crews on holidays requires donations.
This year, roughly 8,200 holiday meals are needed for residents in the six-county region served by AgeWays Nonprofit Senior Services. The meals are delivered in Livingston, Macomb, Monroe, Oakland, St. Clair and Washtenaw counties.
About $55,000 will cover the cost of the meals. With DTE Foundation’s annual donation of $29,000, about $26,000 is still needed to close the funding gap.
AgeWays works with 11 local Meals on Wheels providers throughout its six-county region that are responsible for preparing and delivering meals daily. This year, these partners have delivered 2.2 million meals (including congregate meals at senior centers) for around 22,000 people. Some even provide food for pets.
“Since government funding does not cover the cost of meals on the holidays, AgeWays is a key funder to ensure seniors do not go without a meal. Donations are critical to ensure the delivery of a hot, nutritious meal while spreading holiday cheer to older adults who otherwise would be home alone for the holidays,” says Angela Patten, AgeWays’ program manager for nutrition services.
To make a donation to the AgeWays Holiday Meals on Wheels Program, go to AgeWays.org/Donate. The local providers that AgeWays works with also accept donations to help offset funding gaps and keep their weekday deliveries going.
By the numbers
• Meals on Wheels relies on 5,000 community-based programs to make, pack and deliver meals.
• 77% of seniors say Meals on Wheels helps them stay healthy.
• 85% of seniors say Meals on Wheels helps them to feel more secure.
• 92% of seniors say Meals on Wheels helps them to live independently. Meals on Wheels can provide meals for a senior for one year at the same cost as one day in the hospital or 10 days in a nursing home.
This content is provided by AgeWays Nonprofit Senior Services (formerly the Area Agency on Aging 1-B), a nonprofit that serves older adults and family caregivers in Livingston, Macomb, Monroe, Oakland, St. Clair and Washtenaw counties. We provide services, programs and resources that are designed to help seniors age safely and independently. Call us at 800-852-7795 to get connected.
Owen Han is an L.A.-based chef and content creator whose TikTok videos about making sandwiches routinely get millions of views — thus proving the power of this deceptively simple meal. (Check him out at tiktok.com/@owen.han, and read our interview with Han here.)
For this recipe, included in his new cookbook “Stacked: The Art of the Perfect Sandwich,” Han transforms the classic brunch dish, shakshuka, into a supremely satisfying breakfast sandwich. Shakshuka is “quite simple, consisting of eggs poached in a spicy vegetable sauce,” he writes. “Served on a toasted roll, it becomes a more substantial meal. If you wish, add sliced avocado to your sandwich. Living in California, I put avocado on everything I can!”
Another tip: Elevate the flavors further with one of Han’s favorite sandwich condiments, pickled onions.
Shakshuka Breakfast Sandwich
Makes 4 sandwiches
INGREDIENTS
For the spicy tomato sauce:
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 small yellow onion, chopped
1/2 large red bell pepper, seeded and cut into ½-inch dice
3 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon sweet or smoked paprika
1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper
14.5-ounce can of diced tomatoes
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
For everything else:
4 large eggs
1/2 cup crumbled feta cheese
2 tablespoons finely chopped, fresh flat-leaf parsley or cilantro
4 crusty round sandwich rolls, such as kaiser rolls, split, brushed with olive oil and toasted
DIRECTIONS
Make the spicy tomato sauce: Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onion, bell pepper and garlic and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onion is tender, about 5 minutes. Add the cumin, paprika and cayenne and stir until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the tomatoes with their juices and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cook at a brisk simmer, stirring often, until the juices thicken, about 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.
Using the back of a large spoon, make 4 evenly spaced wells in the sauce. Crack an egg into each well. Cover the skillet and simmer over medium-low heat until the whites are set, but the yolks are still runny, 4 to 5 minutes. Season the eggs with salt and pepper. Sprinkle with the cheese and parsley (feta cheese does not melt). Remove from the heat.
For each sandwich, place a roll on a dinner plate. Use a large spoon to transfer an egg and a serving of the sauce onto the roll bottom. Cap with the roll top, cut in half, and serve immediately with a fork and knife.
This time of year, as the light slants and temperatures drop, all I really want for dinner is pasta. It’s the key to a luxuriously easy meal when tossed with the robust vegetables of autumn.
As much as I love winter squash, I have often resisted using it, not wanting to deal with removing the tough peel and the messy seeds. But right now, delicata squash is at its best. The skins are so tender that you can eat the whole thing (after removing the seeds). Delicata is super easy to cook. It’s smaller in size so one easily feeds two. It’s nicknamed “sweet potato squash” for its lush, velvety texture and the way it caramelizes in a hot pan.
To prepare delicata, simply slice it in half lengthwise, scoop out the seeds and stringy flesh and cut the seeded squash halves into half-moon slices for the prettiest effect. Now it’s ready to roast on a sheet pan (first drizzled with a little oil and salt) in a high-heat oven.
I like delicata best when it’s butter-steamed with a little sage tossed in. Butter steaming cooks the vegetables directly in the butter and is one of the easiest techniques for concentrating flavors. The butter and vegetable juices meld into a wonderful sauce when a little pasta cooking water and wine or stock is added to the pan. It’s best when the butter has begun to brown and the squash starts to caramelize and turn nutty. Toss in cooked pasta, scatter the whole thing with fresh herbs and cheese, and you have a satisfying vegetarian dinner or a hearty side, a taste of our gorgeous fall.
Delicata Squash, Spinach and Sage-Butter Pasta
Serves 4.
This easy pasta dish shows off delicata’s greatest qualities. The slices turn tender, sweet and nutty as they caramelize in butter that becomes the base for a luscious sauce. No need to peel the squash first, as the skin is soft and adds texture to the final dish. A handful of fresh spinach adds color and taste; kale or broccoli would work equally well. Vary the cheese as you please. From Beth Dooley.
8 oz. pasta
Coarse salt
4 tbsp. (¼ c.) butter, cut into chunks
1 lb. delicata squash, halved and seeded, cut into ¼-inch slices
¼ c. peeled, sliced shallot
2 tsp. chopped fresh sage
Generous pinch red pepper flakes, to taste
¼ c. pasta cooking water
¼ c. white wine (or more pasta cooking water)
6 to 8 oz. fresh spinach leaves, torn
Fresh cracked black pepper
1 tbsp. balsamic vinegar, or more to taste
2 to 3 oz. chèvre or mozzarella
Directions
Bring a large pot of salted water to boil. Drop in the pasta and cook until al dente, about 10 to 12 minutes. During the last couple of minutes of cooking, remove about 1 cup of the pasta water and set aside. Drain the pasta, cover and set aside.
Set a large skillet over medium heat and add the butter. When the butter starts to foam, add the squash slices and shallot and cook, tossing, until lightly browned, about 3 to 5 minutes. Cover the pan and allow the squash to cook a little more until it becomes tender, about 1 minute. Remove the cover, add the sage and red pepper flakes, ¼ cup of the pasta water and wine (or more pasta water). Stir and add the spinach and cook until wilted. Taste and adjust the seasonings, adding pepper and more salt. If it seems dry, add a little more wine or pasta water. Toss in the pasta and before serving, drizzle with the balsamic and dot with the cheese.
Beth Dooley is the author of “The Perennial Kitchen.” Find her at bethdooleyskitchen.com.
If you’re looking for a new twist for your Thanksgiving pie display, this Hawaiian chocolate haupia pie may be just the thing. This recipe yields a rich chocolate pie with a layer of haupia –a coconut milk pudding — topped with whipped cream.
This recipe is inspired by the haupia pie found at Ted’s Bakery in Oahu. The bakery on the island’s North Shore serves up creative cream pies like this one, plus peach Bavarian cream, strawberry guava and chocolate macadamia nut cream pies. And the how-tos hail from the new “Most Requested Copycat Dishes: 100+ Homemade Versions of Your Favorite Restaurant Recipes” cookbook (Shadow Mountain, $25) by the team — Erica Walker, Emily Walker, Elise Donovon and Echo Blickenstaff — from Favorite Family Recipes.
14-ounce can unsweetened coconut milk (not fat-free or light)
1 cup granulated sugar
1 cup semisweet chocolate chips
Whipped Cream
1½ cups heavy whipping cream
1/4 cup sugar
1/2 teaspoon coconut extract (optional)
DIRECTIONS
Line a pie tin with pastry crust. Generously pierce crust with a fork. Bake according to your pie crust recipe or according to package directions, until golden brown. Remove from oven and allow crust to cool.
In a liquid measuring cup or small bowl, combine 1/2 cup whole milk and cornstarch. Mix until cornstarch is dissolved. Set aside.
In a medium-sized saucepan over medium heat, whisk together remaining 1 cup whole milk, coconut milk and sugar. Bring to a simmer, whisking often.
Stir cornstarch mixture once more before slowly adding to coconut milk mixture, whisking constantly. Continue whisking until mixture becomes thick, like a thick pudding. (This coconut milk pudding is the haupia.) It is very important that the mixture is thick before moving to the next step.
Place about half of the haupia mixture into a separate bowl and set aside. Add chocolate chips to the remaining mixture in the saucepan and stir until chocolate chips are completely melted and well combined.
Add chocolate haupia mixture immediately to cooled pie crust and smooth with a spatula until even. Add the remaining haupia mixture over the top and carefully smooth over until even.
Cover and refrigerate for 6 hours.
To make the whipped cream, whip heavy cream and sugar until stiff peaks form. Add coconut extract and whip for 30 more seconds.
After pie has cooled, cut into slices and top with whipped cream topping. You can use a piping bag fitted with a large star tip to pipe the whipped cream in a design over the top.
— Excerpted from “Favorite Family Recipes: Most Requested Copy Cat Dishes” (Shadow Mountain, 2024)
This unusual custard pie blends Mexican sensibilities with Northern California flair for a sophisticated, surprising and delightful result, says cookbook author Rogelio Garcia in his new cookbook, “Convivir: Modern Mexican Cuisine in California’s Wine Country” (Cameron + Company, $50).
The wine country chef — who helms the Michelin-starred Auro in Calistoga — drew inspiration from the Capay Valley’s Cache Creek Lavender Farm, where he sources dried culinary lavender. The lavender flan filling is paired with an unusual crust, a Mexican version of the French pâte sucrée.
“It’s as pretty as it is flavorful,” he writes.
Lavender Custard Pie with Masa Sucrée Crust
Serves 8-10
INGREDIENTS
For the lavender-scented custard:
1½ cups (360 ml) whole milk
1/2 teaspoon dried lavender or 1 fresh lavender sprig
1/2 cup (120 ml) canned sweetened condensed milk
1 cup (240 ml) heavy cream
1 vanilla bean, slit in half lengthwise and seeds scraped
4 egg yolks
2 whole eggs
1/4 cup (50 g) granulated sugar
For the masa sucrée dough:
3/4 cup (95 g) all-purpose flour
3/4 cup (90 g) yellow or white masa harina, preferably Masienda brand
2 tablespoons dark brown sugar
1/8 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 cup (115 g) very cold unsalted butter, thinly sliced or grated
3 to 4 tablespoons (45 to 60 ml) ice cold water
Whipped cream and dulce de leche, for serving
DIRECTIONS
A day before you want to make the pie, in a medium bowl, combine the milk, lavender, sweetened condensed milk, heavy cream, vanilla bean pod and seeds, egg yolks, whole eggs and the granulated sugar and whisk until all ingredients are well combined. Cover the bowl and refrigerate overnight.
On the day of, preheat the oven to 325 degrees.
Make the dough: In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the flour, masa harina, brown sugar and salt and mix for about 30 seconds, or until well combined. Add the butter and mix on medium speed until the mixture has a coarse sandy texture. Add 2 tablespoons of water, adding more water as needed, 1 tablespoon at a time, just until the dough comes together when pressed.
Transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface and press into a disk. Roll out the dough into a 10- to 11-inch round about 1/4 inch thick.
Gently ease the dough round into a 9-inch pie pan, pressing the dough snugly into the bottom and sides of the pan. Trim the edges so they extend about 1/2 inch beyond the pan. Tuck the dough over itself to create a rim, then crimp with your fingers or a fork.
Place the pie in the oven, then pour the lavender custard through a fine-mesh sieve into the crust-lined pie pan. Bake until the custard is set, it jiggles slightly in the center when gently shaken, and the edges are light golden brown, about 1 hour.
Transfer the pie to a wire rack to cool completely, then transfer to the refrigerator to chill completely. Serve with whipped cream and dulce de leche.
— Courtesy Rogelio Garcia with Andréa Lawson Gray, “Convivir: Modern Mexican Cuisine in California’s Wine Country” (Cameron + Company, $50).
Fall is when many of us start to slow down, and at the same time get a hankering for foods that warm us up on a crisp and chilly day while filling the kitchen with wonderful, comforting aromas.
If it’s easy to prepare, even better. And when said meal doesn’t cost a proverbial arm and leg? That’s a definite win in these economic times, when chasing down bargains in your local grocery store or farmers market has become both a sport and a necessary evil.
In this week’s Dinner on a Budget, the goal is once again to create a filling three-course meal for two — hopefully with some tasty leftovers for lunch the next day — for around $15, or what I paid for a glass of wine at the airport while waiting for a flight recently.
Cooking to the season, we decided to build the meal around a classic fall dish: a small-batch pot of beef and bean chili.
Ground beef, like everything else, has gone up in price the last few years but it’s still among your more affordable proteins. Usually you can find it for about $5.99 a pound, which isn’t too bad considering a 16-ounce package can easily be stretched into four servings with the equally budget-friendly addition of canned tomatoes and beans.
Chili is the perfect dish for economical cooks because it’s so user-friendly (seriously, it’s pretty tough to make a bad pot of chili) and versatile, lending itself all different kinds of vegetables and proteins.
While ours is made with a can of fire-roasted tomatoes, chopped green pepper and red kidney beans along with the requisite garlic and onions, you can throw in anything you might happen to have sitting on a pantry shelf or tucked into your fridge’s vegetable cooler — think lentils, canned corn, squash, celery and even sweet potatoes.
It tends to taste even better the next day, once the flavors have really melded, and leftovers can be used as a topping not just on hot dogs or french fries but also enchiladas, tacos and baked potatoes. You also can bulk up a bowl of mac ‘n cheese with a few generous spoonfuls.
I tend to have a heavy hand with chili powder and cumin, which adds a nutty, smoky flavor, but that’s the beauty of chili. You can tame it by dialing down the spices, or crank it up to five-alarm level by adding a sprinkle or two of cayenne pepper, red pepper flakes and/or chipotle in adobo sauce.
The accompanying baked dessert — individual chocolate cakes made in 5-ounce ramekins and painted with a sweet coffee glaze — was almost ridiculously cheap and easy to pull together. One of the main ingredients, cocoa powder, costs only about 8 cents per tablespoon. And because the recipe makes just two servings, you don’t need a lot of sugar, flour or confectioners’ sugar (all pantry staples) either.
The most expensive ingredient, in fact, is a single egg yolk that cost 29 cents. Plus, chocolate cake is just plain delicious, especially if you eat it warm and use coffee for the frosting.
What was most surprising and also a bit of a challenge when pricing out this week’s recipes was working fresh fruit and veggies into the menu. A single, baseball-sized apple will still put you back at least $1 these days at most grocery stores, and onions — a workhorse kitchen staple for many home cooks — are nearly as expensive, especially if a recipe calls for more-delicate red onions.
Small packages of salad greens also tend to be pricey since you’re not getting the same economies of scale as when you purchase a family-sized container. The 5-ounce package of spinach I used with a green apple and a red onion I already had in my refrigerator crisper cost $2.99 on sale, or almost double the cost per ounce of a 16-ounce container priced at $5.99 (37 cents per ounce).
The takeaway: If you have room in your fridge and like to plan meals a couple days in advance, it’s probably always better to spend a little more on a bigger box or package to save yourself some money in the long run.
The total tally for the chili dinner, using some ingredients already on hand, a half-can of beans and store-brand tomatoes instead of the fancy organic name brand I really wanted: $15.05, or just a nickel over.
Insist on rounding out the meal with some carbs? If you add a box of Jiffy corn muffin mix to your shopping list, you’ll add another buck to the cost of dinner, which you can offset by using a little less ground beef or opting to go bean-free.
Spinach and Apple Salad
Serves 2. PG tested.
This simple salad is adaptable for every taste. I added slices of green apple and also threw in some of the raisins I always have in my fridge, but you could also add sliced pear or go a little sweeter with dried cranberries. Or, top the salad with toasted nuts or homemade croutons made with stale bread and Italian seasonings — whatever you’ve got in your pantry.
INGREDIENTS
For dressing
1/3 cup olive oil
3 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1 clove garlic, minced
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
For salad
5 ounces fresh spinach
1 apple, such as Honeycrisp, thinly sliced
1/4 red or sweet onion, thinly sliced
1/4 cup raisins or craisins
DIRECTIONS
In a medium bowl, whisk together oil, vinegar, garlic and Dijon mustard until completely incorporated. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
Combine all salad ingredients in a large bowl. Add dressing, toss to combine and serve immediately.
— Gretchen McKay, Post-Gazette
Small-Batch Chili
Makes 4 servings. PG tested.
Chili can either be moderately spicy or very spicy, so add chili powder to your liking. I sometimes will also stir in a couple of chipotle peppers in adobo sauce for extra heat.
If you have some shredded cheddar in the fridge, throw that on top with the chopped onions for a cheesy finish. Grated Parmesan also works for a flavor boost. Leftovers can be served for lunch the next day, or use to top hot dogs, spoon with rice into hallowed-out bell pepper halves or stir into mac ‘n cheese to make chili mac.
INGREDIENTS
2 tablespoons neutral oil
1/2 yellow onion, diced (about 1/2 cup), plus more to serve
1 clove garlic, minced
1/2 green pepper, diced (about 1/2 cup)
1 pound ground beef
Kosher salt and ground black pepper
1/2 15 1/2 -ounce can pinto or red kidney beans, drained and rinsed
1 15-ounce can diced fire-roasted tomatoes
2 heaping tablespoons chili powder, or more to taste
1 tablespoon ground cumin, or to taste
Dash cider vinegar, optional
DIRECTIONS
Add oil to a large sauce pot set over medium heat. When it sizzles, add chopped onion, garlic and green pepper, and cook, stirring constantly, until veggies are tender, about 2 minutes.
Add ground beef and cook, breaking it up with a wooden spoon as you go, until meat is well browned.
Stir in kidney beans and fire-roasted tomatoes; if you prefer a thinner consistency, you can add 1/2 can of water. Season to taste with chili powder, cumin and salt and black pepper. I always like to add a dash of cider vinegar for an extra kick, too, but that’s optional.
Bring to a boil, reduce heat to low, cover and let simmer for at least 30 minutes. When ready to serve, spoon into warmed bowls and top with diced onion.
— Gretchen McKay, Post-Gazette
Chocolate Cake for Two
PG tested.
Dessert for just two is easy when you bake it in a ramekin. This gooey chocolate cake with a hint of coffee flavor is the perfect example. It stirs together in seconds and only take about 20 minutes to bake.
Add less coffee to the confectioners’ sugar for a thicker icing and more for a thinner glaze.
INGREDIENTS
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1/4 cup all-purpose flour
2 (heaping) tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder
1/4 teaspoon baking powder
1/8 teaspoon baking soda
Pinch of salt
1 large egg yolk
2 tablespoons milk
1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons neutral oil
1/4 teaspoon vanilla
1 tablespoon warm coffee
For glaze
1/4 cup confectioners’ sugar
1 (heaping) tablespoon cocoa powder
Milk (or leftover coffee), as needed, to make a glaze
DIRECTIONS
Spray 2 4-inch (6-ounce) ramekins well with cooking spray, and set them on a mini baking sheet. (I used butter to grease the ramekins.)
Preheat the oven to 350.
In a small bowl, whisk together the sugar, flour, cocoa powder, baking powder, baking soda and pinch of salt. Set aside.
In a medium bowl, whisk together egg yolk, milk, oil, vanilla and coffee (or water).
Add dry ingredients in two batches to wet ingredients, and stir gently to combine.
Divide the mixture between the two ramekins.
Bake for 20 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted comes out clean. Allow to cool.
While the cakes cool, make the frosting: whisk together all ingredients, adding more coffee or milk to thin it out to a pourable consistency. Drizzle or spread on top of cakes and serve.
An increase in Michigan’s minimum wage and required sick leave is set to take effect in February. This week on MichMash, host Cheyna Roth and Gongwer News Service’s Zach Gorchow sit down with Chris White, Michigan director of the Restaurant Opportunities Center; and Justin Winslow, president and CEO of the Michigan Restaurant and Lodging Association; to share their positions on the new law.
How the new minimum wage law will affect employees and businesses
How 9/11 influenced the Restaurant Opportunities Center
Concerns the Michigan Restaurant and Lodging Association has with the rate of increase
Following the recent Michigan Supreme Court ruling connected to the state’s new minimum wage and sick leave laws, the legislation is slated to take effect early next year.
Michigan’s $10.33 minimum wage will climb above $12 by February 2025 — and to $15 an hour by 2029. Additionally, the law will require all Michigan employers to offer up to 72 hours of paid sick leave per year to their employees, and end the tip credit system.
White says the law changes are necessary for progress.
“They don’t make enough money. They are essential workers. The cost of living is going up, so wages should go up with that cost of living,” he said.
However, not all Michigan residents and business owners agree that the changes will be beneficial to the state, and especially for small businesses.
“I think the rate and the speed by which we increase the minimum wage is important to the industry, like it would be any small business operator,” Winslow said. “But for the restaurant industry specifically, the tip credit really means life or death for a lot of folks; service, restaurants, dine-in restaurants.”
Stakeholders are now urging the Legislature to amend the laws set to take effect in February.
To discuss what makes Loui’s so great, we’re joined by owner Nyk Sulkiwskyj.
Sulkiwskyj says his grandfather started Loui’s and has had his hands in shaping Detroit’s pizza history. He immigrated from France to West Virginia, worked as a mason and bricklayer, before getting a call from his grandmother’s uncle who was running Buddy’s Pizza at the time.
“So my grandma, grandfather just came on over to Michigan and dropped everything to help out. So from there, my grandfather worked up to kitchen manager, lead pizza cook, stuff like that, and eventually moved on from Buddy’s Pizza, started Shield’s Pizzeria, and then from there started Loui’s Pizza.”
Loui’s puts great care into ingredients and how their pizzas are crafted, Sulkiwskyj said.
“What makes the Loui’s pizza so great is our attention to detail. We don’t skimp around any technical processes,” Sulkiwskyj said. “Everything is done by hand. It’s an art form.”
Use the media player above to hear the full interview with Sulkiwskyj.
More headlines from The Metro on Sept. 9, 2024:
Gov. Gretchen Whitmer has helped Democrats through several legislative accomplishments over the last few years, but she hasn’t been able to get everything done that she said she would while campaigning for office. ProPublica reporter Anna Clark joined the show to discuss what Whitmer’s still got left on her agenda and how likely she is to pass certain policies.
At the end of last month, Detroit Mayor Mike Duggan created the city’s first Entrepreneurship and Economic Opportunity department. We spoke with the Director Justin Owenu about what kinds of plans he has in store to create more job opportunities for city residents.
For its third year, If the River Could Sing: A Celebration of Writing and River with InsideOut is happening at Robert C. Valade Park in Detroit on Sept. 12. The evening will culminate with a sunset showcase of music and poetry. The program’s MC and Executive Director of InsideOut Literary Arts Suma Rosen joined The Metro to discuss the event.
Listen to The Metro weekdays from 11 a.m. to noon ET on 101.9 FM and streaming on-demand.
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